A


fter the seemingly endless, steamy summers here in the Carolinas, fall is welcomed with


a sigh of relief. When the cooler weather finally arrives, many of us adventurous fungi lovers grab a basket and head for the woods. If you’re out scouting for wild edibles


as I will be these next several weeks, you might spot patches of golden mushrooms growing along the river or beneath the shade of stately beech trees. Maybe chanterelles? A quick peek under the cap identifies tiny “teeth” instead of gills. Good news! You’ve confirmed hedgehogs—a somewhat underappreciated and yet delicious mushroom whose discovery should thrill any forager. Hedgehogs, or “sweet tooth”


mushrooms, are easy to identify and a lucky culinary find. Tey will surprise you with their nutty and slightly sweet flavor, and woo you with their bright orange color and cute dimples. As a bonus, they’re rich in vitamin D, potassium and iron, and like most mushrooms, also have anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. You’ll love cooking with them. Hedgehog mushrooms are wonderful simply sautéed in fresh butter with a bit of garlic and a sprinkle of parsley on their own or served alongside grilled or roasted meats or game. Tey hold a firm consistency and readily absorb flavors making them a perfect addition to soups or stews, and are a good stand-in for almost any recipe calling for chanterelles. Te tiny teeth on the underside of


their caps can make them somewhat difficult to clean (a small brush is handy), but the extra effort is well worth it. Te tasty little spikes will detach during cooking, and leave tiny, flavorful bits of mushroom floating in your sauce or broth. (If your recipe calls for a clear sauce or soup you may want to choose another mushroom.) Preserving your hedgehogs is easy.


Although they’re not a great choice for drying, unlike most mushrooms, they freeze raw beautifully, and thaw out in perfect form. Tey are also an ideal choice for pickling and conservas. A long-standing, traditional Italian method for preserving mushrooms and other vegetables, conserva is similar to pickling, although it differs with the addition of lots of good olive oil and


savory herbs. I encourage you to give this recipe a try the next time you have some special mushrooms you want to keep around and enjoy for a while!


 A dish as simple as this calls for


good, quality ingredients. Use a fruity, extra virgin olive oil, a nice aged sherry vinegar and dense, button-type mushrooms. Hedgehogs are the perfect choice. Other meaty mushrooms will work well too, think buttons, cremini, chanterelles, lobster or porcini—a mixture makes it even more interesting. Chop all mushrooms into bite sized pieces and clean foraged or any soiled mushrooms with a quick water rinse just before cooking. Make the conserva a day ahead


and bring to room temperature or gently warm before serving. Tey’re a perfect addition to an antipasto platter or served alongside roasted meats including chicken. Or whatever meat substitute works for you. Top grilled bread slices layered with whipped


chèvre for an easy first course, and pair with warm greens or salad for a quick, light meal. Te mushrooms will keep for weeks in the refrigerator if you can resist the urge to snack on them! Makes 4 cups


1 cup olive oil


2–3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 shallots, thinly sliced


1 heaping teaspoon fresh thyme leaves 2 bay leaves


1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt


2 pounds hedgehog or assorted mushrooms


3–4 oil packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and finely chopped 3 tablespoons sherry vinegar


3 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon honey 1/2 cup water


Fresh thyme sprigs


Fresh lemon juice, chopped fresh mild herbs; parsley, basil, tarragon (optional)


Heat the oil in a deep saucepan with a lid over medium low heat, add the garlic, shallots, dried thyme, bay leaves and salt. Sauté until the shallots are translucent


Fall 2021 FUNGI Volume 14:415


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