braises for older and tougher animals to quick ways for tender, young ones — also applying to goat.


But before the recipe, we should return to the young goats, though, sadly, they no longer wander the city courtyards and streets. If they did, if we heard their bells, we might value them differently. Appreciate more deeply the females for their milk and cheese, and take responsibility for young males, many of which are euthanized so young that


they don’t even need to be recorded. For those who choose not to eat meat, this fact will probably compound the horror. For those of us who do, it is also horrifying. With a solution, realized by James Whetlor and Cabrito, who, having built a relationship with the British dairy industry, take goats from farms nationwide, have them reared to high welfare standards, then supply the meat to consumers and restaurants.


This both ends the historic practice of


euthanizing unwanted male kids and supplies meat that is low in fat, tender and deli- cious. Whetlor’s book Goat is exceptional, his philosophy in six words: eat more goat, from good farmers. Inspired, I made a typical Roman braise with wine and herbs, but using young goat instead of lamb.


Braised goat with


rosemary and potatoes 6 tbsp olive oil


2.5 lbs young goat meat, cut into quart- pound chunks Salt


2 bushy sprigs of rosemary — the leaves of one picked and finely minced, the other left whole


2 garlic cloves — one peeled and finely minced, the other peeled and left whole 2 small dried red chilies – one minced finely, the other left whole 14 ozs dry white wine


2 lbs evenly-sized waxy potatoes, peeled, halved and boiled 2-3 anchovy fillets


2 tbsp red- or white-wine vinegar 2 tsp olives, green or black, pitted


In a heavy-based saucepan or casserole on a medium-high heat, warm the olive oil. Season the pieces of goat with salt, then brown in batches, so as not to over- crowd the pan, and lift out on to a plate when done.


Return all the meat to the pan with the minced garlic, rosemary and chili, stir for a minute, then pour over the wine and leave to bubble for a minute. Add the whole rosemary sprig, garlic clove and chili, reduce the heat to low, cover the pan and leave to simmer for an hour and a quarter.


Meanwhile, boil the potatoes in well salted water until tender. Check the doneness of the goat — it should be get- ting tender, so continue cooking uncov- ered until the liquid reduces to a thick gravy.


Mash the anchovies into the vinegar, then pour this over the meat. Add the drained potatoes and olives to the pot, stir gently so as not to break up the po- tatoes, then turn off the heat and leave to sit for a while — 20 minutes at least, ideally an hour. Gently reheat, then serve. Serves 4.


8 Goat Rancher | July 2025


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