the second view and recenter the subject after you move the camera. How much you move your camera between shots depends on how close you are and what lens you are using. Our eyeballs are between about 55 and 65 mm apart but we can perceive the 3D aspect of our world at a large variety of distances from as close as you can focus both eyes on something (for me about 20 cm) to, say, 100 m distant subjects. Tere are other clues like superposition and haziness that help clarify our 3D world at greater distances. If your subject is about a meter away from the camera or further, move the camera 60 mm or so between shots. As the distance to the subject decreases, move the camera less. As a rule of thumb, for macro shots, I use about 1/4 of the width of the viewfinder image: take the left photo. Slide to the right until the object in the center has moved a quarter of the way to the left (as you slide camera from left to right). If you think about it, the lateral separation that ends up being used to generate a 3D image in our brains is really an angular distance and that will vary with the scale of the image. Experiment with what works for you. Peoples’ eyes are very accommodating. Some things to worry about. Make sure there is nothing in the
Panaeolina foenisecii spore print.
Panaeolina foenisecii.
view that can distract from the subject. Particularly irksome are small sticks and plants between the subject and your camera. So, remove them or reposition your view so as not to include them. For macro work there is an additional problem, the narrow depth of focus. Use as large an F-stop setting (smaller iris opening) as your lens allows without degradation of the image. For standard lenses, usually your best resolution is F 8 to F 16. Higher F-stops will give you greater depth of focus but sometimes fuzzier image quality. For macro shots, I use focus stacking (or focus merging) to combine several shots taken at stepped increasing distances from the subject. For extreme macro shots (1:1) perhaps as many as 10 separate images. A number of programs (Photoshop, Helicon, Zerene Stacker, Affinity Photo) perform the combining process digitally. Of course, this greatly increases the time to complete the photos in the field since you have to take a stack of images for both the left and right views. I do all my color adjusting on the two left/right images, then combine them. To produce a digital pair, use the free PC program,
StereoPhotoMaker (
https://stereo.jpn.org/eng/stphmkr/). Load the two views into this program and then use the
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