Celebrate July 4 with Martha Washington’s colonial-era recipe

As a devoted student of history, I thought it appropriate that

July’s recipe reflect our roots in the 13 original colonies. This recipe comes from a cookbook written in the 1700s by Eleanor Parke Custis, whose son, Daniel, was the first husband of Martha Custis Washing- ton (the future first First Lady). Mrs. John Custis gifted the book to Martha, who eventually passed it along to her granddaughter, Nelly Custis Lewis.

After a bit a research, I learned that while George was president, he and Martha entertained very often but had continuous difficulty in finding and hiring qualified cooks. In addition, George tended to be frugal but often was compelled to provide meals for politicians and foreign dignitaries. The cooks often got lectured on not over- spending while having to provide for 20-plus guests dining on several courses. The Washingtons at various times hired kitchen staff that were both white and black, and paid the standard wage of $4 per month to all. In a pinch, even their longtime butler was once pressed into serv- ice as a cook.

After returning to Mount Vernon after his presidency, the en- tertaining slowed down but never stopped because oftentimes citizens would just drop by to meet the former president, who invariably was gracious enough to include them in a meal. It’s no wonder George Washington felt he was always going broke providing meals; in the 18th

century the first course typically

included at least 20 different dishes to select from and the second course around 15 more. After the second course, all the plates were removed and decanters of wine were set out along with fruit and nuts. At that point the ladies would retire to the parlor and the gentlemen would converse around the dining table.

Some of the ingredients used in recipes served by George and Martha are not often included in current dishes —these include such


Aug. 7-8 — 4th annual Heritage Kiko Showcase Sale. Carrollton, Ga. FMI: email

Sept. 11 & 12 — Appalachian Kiko Invitational. Appalachian Fair- grounds, Gray, TN. FMI: Lance Buckles, 423-957-0059 or Nona Cullen, 336-384-1045. Check our website: www.appalachiankikosin-

Sept. 18-19 — Oklahoma Hills Meat Goat Conference and Invita- tional Kiko Sale. Okmulgee Co. Fairgrounds, Okmulgee, OK. FMI: Kent Perkins, 918-755-4462 or

Sept. 25-26 — IKGA Kikofest. Crossville Fairgrounds, Crossville, TN. FMI: Steve Maynard,

Oct. 2-3 — NKR’s Corn Country Commercial Meat Goat Confer- ence. Harrison County Fairgrounds, Corydon, IN. FMI: Terry Han- kins, 662-519-9697 or Web-site:

Oct. 3 — Cream of the Crop Kiko Sale. Harrison County Fair- grounds, Corydon, IN. FMI: Terry Hankins, 662-519-9697 or egypt-

Oct. 16-17 — Heritage Blue Ridge Invitational. Rowan County Fair- grounds, Salisbury, N.C. FMI: email

Nov. 6-7 — Central U.S. Kiko Goat Association Seminar & Sale. Okmulgee County Fairgrounds, Okmulgee, OK. FMI: Wayne Simms, 918-633-7353 or Dennis Thorp, 832-629-9909.

Nov. 13-14 — SEKGA RoundUp and Kiko Sale. Georgia National Fairgrounds, Perry, GA. FMI: Marilyn Seleska, 229-263-7977 or

July 2020 | Goat Rancher 27 A Stew with Oranges

3 pounds goat meat with bones (or 1 ½ pounds boneless cubes) Salt and pepper Freshly grated nutmeg ½ T. vinegar

Juice of 5 oranges Zest of two orange rinds Flour 3 T. butter ½ c. raisins

Cut the bones into 1 ½ inch pieces and then place in a ziplock

bag with flour, salt, pepper, and ground nutmeg. Shake until thor- oughly coated. Melt butter in a Dutch oven and brown the meat over a low flame. Add the vinegar, orange juice, and grated orange zest. Cover and let simmer until meat is tender and separates from the bones. Add the raisins and simmer for 15 more minutes.

(Suzanne Stemme lives with her husband, Dr. Kraig Stemme,

DVM, in Alba, Texas. The Stemmes raise Kiko breeding stock at Lake Fork Kikos. You can reach Suzanne via their website: www.lakefork-


things as sweetbreads, kidneys, rose water and mace. Flavorings, such as vanilla, did not come into fashion until Thomas Jefferson’s administration, when he served dishes prepared with the vanilla beans he brought back from a visit to France.

The following recipe originally used mutton, but I have found it to be just as delicious with goat. Serve with wild rice and a summer salad of tomatoes, cucumbers and spring onions. Fortunately, you don’t have to serve two full courses to enjoy this dish from Martha’s kitchen!

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